Why Travel?

Before I left for my semester abroad, everyone seemed to be asking me the same question: "are you scared?" And I never knew how to respond. I was certainly anxious and very excited, but fear wasn't exactly on my list of stirring emotions at the time. I did not fear living on my own, for I had already mastered that for a year and a half, nor was I afraid of an Arab culture so similar to my own Middle Eastern background. I didn't understand why I was supposed to fear a group of people, just because they lived on the opposite side of the world.

The second most frequently asked question I received was: "why?" Everyone, and literally their mother, asked me over and over why I was choosing to live so far away from home for such a long time. "Is this going to help you get into graduate school?" "Does it look good on your resume?" "Will this help you get a job?" Without a pragmatic reason as to why I was leaving the country for five months, I seemed to be "wasting my time," as some people put it. And for a little while, I wasn't exactly sure why I was going abroad either-- should I focus solely on shaping my career right now? Am I really getting anything out of this experience? And I started doubting the whole thing, and thinking maybe it was a poor decision.

And now, five months later, after living through an experience like none other, I'm trying to make sense of my time spent abroad to figure out what I got out of it exactly. And aside from three suitcases and tons of souvenirs, I came back to the United States with something else; a fresh sense of compassion. A good friend of mine once told me that the world would achieve peace when people begin to look at humanity through God's eyes, and a famous Hillsong lyric says, "Break my hear from what breaks Yours." And after traveling to the other side of the world and experiencing different people, different cultures, and different ways of life, I realized that I would never have fully understood what my friend meant, or what Hillsong preached about in their music without going abroad. I've always felt like poverty, world hunger, and war were such remote situations; they were third world problems that people in "those" countries have to worry about. But with each place I explored, I marveled at the number of times the Hillsong lyric rang through my mind, "Break my hear from what breaks Yours." And my heart was broken each time I walked through the slums of India or witnessed piercing bullet holes in public squares across war torn Lebanon, or passed by a refugee settlement in Jordan. I felt like there was nothing I could do except offer up a quick prayer after I looked into the pained eyes of a young child asking for money or seeing half of a building torn apart into a pile of rubble.

But there is so much good to see across the world as well. Every soul I encountered was eager to help, eager to lend a smile, and eager to show off how beautiful his country was. And I was constantly reminded of the question, "are you scared?" But the more people I met, the more I realized that I have nothing to be afraid of. The Saudi Arabian man I met at an airport telling me about his new business was no more fearful to me than the Syrian gentleman telling me about his sister's wedding, and how sorry he was to see his country being torn apart. There was no fear in learning about other people and hearing their stories about where they came from and where they're going.

And that's the first way compassion is built up: awareness. I stepped away from my safe haven of family, friends, and a strong church community, and stepped into a whole different world where I was often uncomfortable. And to answer all those questions I was asked before leaving, I would say that there should be no fear in living among other members of humanity; people are not to be feared, it is often their situations that are fearful. And my reason for going abroad was to get a small taste of those fearful situations, to understand what our brothers and sisters in "those" countries go through, and to learn how to extend a heart of love to those who were designed by the same Hands as me.

AD Ventures

My past few posts have included trips I've taken to other countries around the Middle East, but I surely haven't forgotten about my host country! Here are some of the highlights of my time thus far in the UAE:

Dhow dinner cruise along Abu Dhabi corniche

Local soccer game with some family friends

Downtown Dubai along the Souk al Bahar (the Ocean Market) A small marina filled with restaurants and hotels that face the Burj Khalifa and the Dubai Fountain

Dubai achitecture

Entrance to the Ocean Souk

The Grand Mosque of Abu Dhabi, of course it houses one of the largest woven Persian carpets in the world. And it probably holds a few other world records

View from the top of the Burj

Birds eye view of the dormant, but still majestic Dubai Fountain. Yup, it's the largest fountain in the world

Some more shots of the Grand Mosque, there are some of its many....many....many archways. 

Embracing the culture! Abayas are administered before entering the mosque to ensure modesty and cultural respect. 

Some of the intricate work inside of the mosque

The 99 different names for Allah in the Islamic faith

Jordan

The bulk of my Spring Break was spent travelling through Jordan. This historically rich country had every sort of setting, atmosphere and experience to offer, from desert scenery to fast paced city life.

Our first experience in Jordan included a taste of Bedouin lifestyle in the desert of Wadi Rum. After a 3 hour drive from Amman to the Wadi, we found ourselves completely entrenched in desert. Buildings were replaced with tents, and the two modes of transportation were strictly open jeeps and camels. We spent our entire day driving through Wadi Rum and hiking up natural rock formations that told the stories of age old civilizations. Many of the caves and rocks we hiked through were marked with pictures and symbols that depicted events of long gone tribes of people. We also passed through several areas that served as stage settings in the filming of Lawrence of Arabia, as the Bedouins proudly kept mentioning. After a full day of hiking, we drove back to the Bedouin camp, where we found several tents set up, one for the women, one for the men, and a communal tent where everyone gathered for dinner, tea, dancing, and music. The Bedouins introduced us to their culture of dance and celebration and played beautiful renditions with the oud, a Middle Eastern instrument resembling a guitar. They also enlightened us with their philosophies regarding Bedouin life including their insistence that life is fleeting, and there is no need to hold on to possessions of the world. The nomadic nature of the Bedouin lifestyle was a reminder that few things in life are truly essential, and the nature of life itself is as ephemeral as nomadic settlement.

After our experience in the desert, we set out for Wadi Mousa, the place where it is believed that Moses brought forth water from a rock for the people of Israel. While in Wadi Mousa, we spent two full days exploring the ancient city of Petra, and climbing through ruins of tombs and temples. The architecture of the Nabataea people who built the city of Petra was incredible evidence of the innovative work of man, but was unfortunately a huge contrast to the people who worked in Petra as souvenir shop keepers and “taxis.” Overwhelmed by the influx of tourists weaving throughout Petra, the workers adopted an unnatural western accent, and did everything in their power to exploit and take advantage of tourists. All was well, however, when we returned to Valentine Inn, a backpacker hostel that opened its doors to visitors from around the world and was operated by the sweetest and most welcoming family. The middle aged couple did everything in its power to make each guest feel like family and spent each night among us; laughing and celebrating everything and nothing all at once.

After saying goodbye to our host family, we set off to the Dead Sea to float and play in the mud before heading back to Amman to spend our final night before flying back to Abu Dhabi. I was skeptical of how easy it is to float in the Dead Sea until I stood in the water and fell backwards, expecting to be submerged, but instead found myself bobbing like an inflatable floatie.

The remainder of the drive from the Dead Sea to Amman was then smooth cruising through the scenic views of mountainous terrain and herds of goats, and even, yes—stray camels.  Upon arriving to Amman, we set off in search of food and stumbled upon a delicious Fiteer shop on Rainbow Street. The sugary layers of one of my favorite sweets was the perfect way to end an incredible week of travel through one of the most culturally diverse countries in the world.

Being in Jordan provided so much insight into the evolution of spaces. The desert of Wadi Rum, Petra, the Dead Sea, and Amman have all changed drastically throughout their histories to embrace such different and diverse groups of people, settlers, cultures, and traditions, and each layer of history only adds to the beauty of Jordan.





(Photos in this blog are courtesy of Elisa Yi)

The Hidden Gem of the Middle East

Oman was a country that left me entranced throughout the duration of my trip. The scenic mountains and the genuine kindness of each native we encountered was enough to make me fall in love with the hidden gem of the Middle East. 







Our first day of Oman was conducted completely arbitrarily but could not have been more perfect. After having breakfast by the fish market with a wonderful view of the marina, we bargained with a couple of cab drivers for a ride to Quantab beach. After settling on a price, we left the marina and drove to a small fishing village where little boats freckled the shoreline. Our cab driver struck a deal with some of the young men and we settled on a boat ride to a nearby secluded beach where we could swim and snorkel. The landscape was unlike anything I had ever seen. The ocean was filled with mountainous cliffs and caves and the water was the clearest blue green I had ever seen. After arriving to our private shore, we found ourselves partially surrounded by mountains with only the ocean before us. After our surreal experience on this private beach, we went back to the city of Muscat to shop through the souks of Mutrah. After bargaining with merchants, I left the souk with beautiful silk scarves and sapphire earrings.

The next day, we departed from our hotel early in the morning, only to set out on another boat that would take us to some coastal areas for dolphin watching, snorkeling, and swimming among the beautiful coral reef. We again found ourselves in an ocean surrounded by majestic mountains and filled with colorful fish and beautiful sea turtles. After snorkeling for some time, we boarded our boat once more and went back to the city for more Omani cuisine and shopping.

Our final day in Oman, we drove to Sur, a city two hours away from Muscat where we would visit Wadi Shab. Our tour guide informed us that we would be hiking for 30 minutes, then swimming for 30 minutes, and continue the pattern until we reached a cave too beautiful for words to describe. To start our hike, we boarded a small boat to cross a stream of water that separated us from the base of our hike. Our “30 minute hike,” took approximately an hour as my H&M paisley dress and ballet flats were not designed for long hikes. Nonetheless, we climbed up mountainous rocks and hiked on until we came to a pool of fresh water hidden away in the mountains. After cooling off in the water, we began swimming in the direction of the cave. The entire atmosphere was among the most serene settings I’ve ever been situated in; the water was still, the mountains were calming. The area was entirely remote and the muted experience of being among nature and away from the city was the greatest form of recluse. After swimming further, we came to a narrow passageway between two rocks where we had to shuffle sideways between the rocks while keeping afloat to pass through. Once we passed through, however, everything seemed unreal. We found ourselves in a secluded cave filled with the same crystal blue water we had been swimming in and a giant waterfall gushing into the middle of the cave. It was the most beautiful scene I’d ever witnessed, and truly few words or pictures could capture the magnificence of this small hidden enclosure.

Oman was a true testament to the natural beauty of this world and an incredible reminder of how perfectly designed it is.

               

 

Delhi, India

If there is one thing that I have come to learn during my time abroad, it is that the sun truly shines on all. The slums of the poor and the villas of the privileged are all fostered under the same sky, nourished by the same breath of life, and sustained by the same soil of the earth. The most remarkable thing about being in India was seeing gleaming smiles among those living in slums and being able to compare them to the long faces of discontent that frequently float around New York. I am in no position to discredit the experiences and feelings of others, but the amount of things I learned about humanity in the few days of being in India opened my eyes to the flawed materials we often prioritize.

To talk a little bit more about the content of my trip, I should probably mention that the trip to Delhi, India was an experiential learning component of my Modern South Asia class that I am taking here in Abu Dhabi. The purpose of the trip was to witness first hand, the historical sites and ruins that we had been discussing in class for the first portion of the semester. In doing so, we visited monuments that depicted the Moghul reign of India and ruins of the British imperial period.

Ruins in Delhi

Qitab Minar

Ruins of Qitab Minar, Muslim mosque built over Hindu Shrine

 A large part of the trip was also devoted to visiting shrines, mosques, and churches pertaining to the Hindu, Sikh, Sufi, Muslim, Jainism, and Christian religions. Another incredible quality of India is the prevalent religious pluralism that sweeps the country. While walking down one roads of India, we saw churches, shrines, mosques and temples, and worshippers of all religions, peacefully offering up their supplications to their deities. And to think about the conformity of beliefs across the diversity of religions is truly profound. Each worshipper prays for essentially the same things; safety, wealth, and nourishment. Each mother surely prays for the wellbeing of her children and each father prays for the protection of his family, and yet we divide ourselves and desacralize the religions of others without understanding that our worship very often holds the same goals.

Men making offerings at Sufi Shrine

Pearl Mosque

Altar of St. John's Church

Women worshiping at Sikh Temple

Caretaker in Hindu Temple

Winding through the streets of India was another experience all together. Rickshaws, motorbikes, taxis, and buses yield to no one! We had to be incredibly cautious while navigating through the streets, while at the same time being overly stimulated by our new environment. My eyes simply didn’t know where to look at times, and were occupied by the traffic of the roads, the monkeys on the streets, the faces of the people and the glittering jewels of the markets.

Wedding market in Delhi

Daily community service offered by Sikh Temple.Mission is to feed every soul that walks through their doors. 

There is probably so much more to say about India, but to describe in words the genuine curiosity upon the faces of the people, the hospitality of our hosts, the lush, green gardens groomed to perfection, the flavors of spice and curry that explode upon the tongue, the pounding heat of the afternoon and the brisk cool air of the evenings, the bright colors of saris and the even brighter smiles, the ruins of an imperial civilization and alleys upon streets upon miles of history and legacy that is preserved in the pride and hearts of the citizens- to put all of these experiences into words would be to diminish their value.

India is incredible, and life is incredible, and God is good. 

Camels Galore

 Before the age of Petroleum, the United Arab Emirates thrived off of two things: the pearl diving industry and its relationship with camels. Camels were essential in the Arab world for transportation and carrying cargo. Camels were also dependent on their Arab owners for a stable food and water supply. Today, the camels that are scattered throughout the UAE stand as emblems of a much simpler past, and are antiques of an era that knew no SUV’s or pickup trucks.

Last weekend, I got a little taste of what the UAE looked like before the mechanical age. An hour and a half away from Abu Dhabi, in the desert of Sweiha, stands a festival devoted to the remembrance of the camel’s value. When we first arrived, we were introduced to an Emirati who explained some of the different customs of his country. While he spoke, another gentleman handed out porcelain cups of saffron coffee, traditionally drank throughout the Gulf region. We were then escorted to a tent, and this is where I pause.

One would presume that a tent in the middle of the desert would be comprised of some shabby cloth and sticks, clumsily pitched together and filled with sand, flies and dirt. But no, not in the UAE, and especially not when the King’s son is about to join us for lunch. The tent we entered was magnificent and was perhaps three times as large as any wedding reception hall I’ve ever entered. In the main room of the tent ornate couches and armchairs trimmed with red and gold fabric were lined up and facing a dais of throne-like chairs, where as you can assume, were reserved for the Sheikh’s son. After waiting about an hour for his arrival, we were led to another room, about twice as large as the previous where golden platters lined each table and dozens of waiters walked back and forth serving and preparing what seemed like an endless amount of food. Our group walked back to one of the further tables where we found a large circular tray in the center filled with a traditional Emirati dish that consisted of rice, raisins, goat meat, and a mix of spices. On the side, waiters were distributing heaps of camel meat and lamb. Everything tasted incredible!

After lunch, we drove out to a small arena to watch the camel races. As we lined into the stadium, a traditional Emirati dance began in which women lined up in a row and literally “whipped their hair back and forth,” it was the most dizzying thing to watch! Behind them a band of Emirati men played their drums and sang aloud with their thick Gulf Arabic accent. In the background, the camel racers lined up and prepared themselves for a twelve lap race around the track. It also didn’t take too long to realize that there were no other women in the crowd aside from the ones in our group. It was explained to us that this was usually an all-male event, and not regularly attended by women.

After watching some of the camel races, we walked back out into a miniature heritage village where tents (of the typical kind) were lined up and filled with little souvenirs of camels and traditional Emirati dress. A man with two camels was also circling around and offering camel rides to anyone interested. Of course, the Egyptian within me sprung to life and jumped on the first camel that lowered its back.

Today, when we think of the United Arab Emirates, one of the first places that may come to mind is Dubai, and we think of all of its innovations and grandiose buildings and towers and malls. Not too long ago, however, those buildings and towers were simply tents and malls were an anomaly of the west. This experience in Sweiha allowed me a slight chance to step back into time and see the country through the lens of the past.