Camels Galore

 Before the age of Petroleum, the United Arab Emirates thrived off of two things: the pearl diving industry and its relationship with camels. Camels were essential in the Arab world for transportation and carrying cargo. Camels were also dependent on their Arab owners for a stable food and water supply. Today, the camels that are scattered throughout the UAE stand as emblems of a much simpler past, and are antiques of an era that knew no SUV’s or pickup trucks.

Last weekend, I got a little taste of what the UAE looked like before the mechanical age. An hour and a half away from Abu Dhabi, in the desert of Sweiha, stands a festival devoted to the remembrance of the camel’s value. When we first arrived, we were introduced to an Emirati who explained some of the different customs of his country. While he spoke, another gentleman handed out porcelain cups of saffron coffee, traditionally drank throughout the Gulf region. We were then escorted to a tent, and this is where I pause.

One would presume that a tent in the middle of the desert would be comprised of some shabby cloth and sticks, clumsily pitched together and filled with sand, flies and dirt. But no, not in the UAE, and especially not when the King’s son is about to join us for lunch. The tent we entered was magnificent and was perhaps three times as large as any wedding reception hall I’ve ever entered. In the main room of the tent ornate couches and armchairs trimmed with red and gold fabric were lined up and facing a dais of throne-like chairs, where as you can assume, were reserved for the Sheikh’s son. After waiting about an hour for his arrival, we were led to another room, about twice as large as the previous where golden platters lined each table and dozens of waiters walked back and forth serving and preparing what seemed like an endless amount of food. Our group walked back to one of the further tables where we found a large circular tray in the center filled with a traditional Emirati dish that consisted of rice, raisins, goat meat, and a mix of spices. On the side, waiters were distributing heaps of camel meat and lamb. Everything tasted incredible!

After lunch, we drove out to a small arena to watch the camel races. As we lined into the stadium, a traditional Emirati dance began in which women lined up in a row and literally “whipped their hair back and forth,” it was the most dizzying thing to watch! Behind them a band of Emirati men played their drums and sang aloud with their thick Gulf Arabic accent. In the background, the camel racers lined up and prepared themselves for a twelve lap race around the track. It also didn’t take too long to realize that there were no other women in the crowd aside from the ones in our group. It was explained to us that this was usually an all-male event, and not regularly attended by women.

After watching some of the camel races, we walked back out into a miniature heritage village where tents (of the typical kind) were lined up and filled with little souvenirs of camels and traditional Emirati dress. A man with two camels was also circling around and offering camel rides to anyone interested. Of course, the Egyptian within me sprung to life and jumped on the first camel that lowered its back.

Today, when we think of the United Arab Emirates, one of the first places that may come to mind is Dubai, and we think of all of its innovations and grandiose buildings and towers and malls. Not too long ago, however, those buildings and towers were simply tents and malls were an anomaly of the west. This experience in Sweiha allowed me a slight chance to step back into time and see the country through the lens of the past. 

Immersions

A special shout out must be given to my dear friend, Marina Shahat for graciously encouraging me to maintain the blog that I have been neglecting for the past month. My neglect is not indicative of a lack of things to write about but has been more of a result of being unable to put all of the awesome things I’ve experienced into words. So rather than explaining what I have been up to for the last few weeks in griping details, allow me to simply show you.

A trip to Heritage Village is the equivalant of a 7th grade trip to Colonial America towns. The small village is designed in a way to allow visitors a small taste of what the Emirates used to be during the days when it thrived off a small pearl diving industry. Before emerging as the booming metropolis it is today, Abu Dhabi strongly resembled the little village laid out in these pictures.

During my first few days here, I also had the pleasure of going on a desert safari. The best part was the dune bashing experience that took us all the way to our small festival tent. Dune bashing is quite literally dashing into sand dunes at unreasonably high speeds in an SUV. It probably isn't the safest endeavor, but really exhilerating.

 

 

Other excursions throughout Abu Dhabi introduced us to some monumental sites and areas. Among them being the Abu Dhabi Grand Mosque, which of course holds some title as one of the largest mosques in the world and also happens to house the largest Persian carpet in the world.



 



The corniche supersedes any boardwalk I've ever been to. The walkway is filled with palm trees, rows upon rows of planted flowers, and people of all walks of life. The view of the ocean is beautiful at any time of day, even on a foggy day.

Foggy days here in Abu Dhabi are equivalent to rainy days in New York in relation to their frequency and duration. The only difference is that fog does not render umbreallas, rain boots or grouchy drivers.

 

 

Another cool thing about Abu Dhabi is that it has a souk for everything. These pictures were taken at the plant souk (obviously). The plant souk lies near the fish market, the carpet souk, the pottery souk, and several other little markets. It was a wonderful experience to bargain with the merchants and see different exotic and local plants lined up and blossoming.

 

And of course, the best way to get to know any city is by getting lost throughout it. These are some random places I've stumbled upon while walking aimlessly throughout the city with only the missions of exploration and discovery before me.

 

Thus far, it was most definitely been a pleasure to be here.

 

Merging

“I set out alone … Swayed by an overmastering impulse within me and a desire long-cherished in my bosom to visit these sanctuaries. So I … quit all my dear ones, female and male … and forsook my home as birds forsake their nests.”  - Ibn Batuta

Ibn Batuta was a Moroccan explorer who traveled through countless corners of the Eastern world and documented his travels in a book called “Rihla,” (ain't got nothing on this blog though) which is translated to mean “journey.” It seemed appropriate to include an epigraph of his sayings considering the sights I've seen the past few days.  

One of the most evident qualities of the United Arab Emirates, particularly Dubai, is the collection of cultures and attractions from all over the world into one place. The Ibn Batuta Shopping Center in Dubai has woven this quality into the foundation of the building. Each court of the building is designed to resemble a different part of the world that was visited by Ibn Batuta, and therefore combines different elements of each culture, including art, food, and architecture. The Egyptian Court is embellished with hieroglyphics and leads into the Andalusia Court with tall palm trees and a ceiling that depicts a cloudy sky, making it seem as if one is standing outside. The Andalusia Court then opens up into the Persian Court with towering archways, lantern shaped chandeliers, and blue tiles. Passed the Persian Court is the Indian Court with a towering elephantine statue and lanterns dashed with gold and red patterns. The final court was the Chinese Court where red lanterns hung from every corner and a giant ship stood in the center mounted upon make-shift boulders and a large fountain. The center was designed so that walking through each court of the building was like walking through a passage into the Oriental past.

After just a short time of being in the country, it became clear that the Emirates pride itself in breaking records.  Burj Khalifa is the tallest building in the world and twinkles with bright silver lights that shimmer up and down the building. The tower faces a manmade waterfront supplied with natural water from the gulf wherein is placed the Dubai Fountain. As you can probably guess, the Dubai Fountain is the largest fountain in the world and shoots as high up as a 50 story building and dances to the sound of Arabian music. After waiting 30 minutes, we finally had the pleasure of watching the Fountain’s show and even caught a wave of mist despite the distance we were standing away from the platform facing the waterfront. And if the tallest building in the world and the largest fountain in the world aren't elaborate enough, a two story aquarium resides within the Dubai Mall which connects to the waterfront of the Dubai Fountain. An assortment of fish and sea life are housed within the Aquarium which domes and twists around so that a walkthrough allows one to feel as if they’re literally standing in the middle of the Ocean. The whole experience is incredible!

The last two sights explored during my time in Dubai were the Gold Souk and the Global Village. The Gold Souk was unlike any other place visited in Dubai. Tall skyscrapers were replaced with rusted shops and the paved streets lined with deliberate foliage merged into dirt roads and crammed sidewalks. The only thing that brought light to the dusty village was the shimmer of display cases featuring gold and diamonds of Indian, Palestinian, and traditional Arab design. Every corner of the market was filled with a sparkling item and a bargain. The Global Village was a completely different experience. Merchants from countries all over the world set up tents and displayed the hundreds of items they had imported to Dubai. The streets of the village were filled with trinkets from India, Kenya, Iran, Egypt, Brazil, Yemen, and countless other places. The pride of each nation was on display. Ivory elephant tusks were molded into household items and featured in the Kenyan market. Piles and piles of dates sat in baskets all around the Saudi carts and brightly patterned Belgium rugs covered the ground. And again it amazed me how people, food and goods from villages all over the world crammed into one village.

“Of all nations, of all tribes, of all people, of all tongues- before the throne stand myriads-of myriad coming from everywhere”

And to God be the Glory

Collisions

 The fourteen hour flight from New York to Germany to Dubai was tiring to say the least. After four meals of stale airplane meals and horrible films, landing was bliss, despite the fact that it was near 1 AM.Nonetheless, it was a smooth journey overall, with little challenges other than attempting to flush a German toilet.

My first day in Dubai began the same way as any other Arabday; it began with teas, fruits, and baked goods. The globe was presented to us in porcelain dishes, as the Green Tea was imported organically from China, crisp apples were imported over from Iran, and the baked goods had some French influence. The day progressed naturally with the same Arab tendency of gorging visitors with food; breakfast (or what I know as brunch) was served at around noon and included an assortment of domestic and international cheese selections, pastrami, omelets,and stuffed grape leaves. After drinking coffee in the veranda with the beautiful marina in view, we took a drive over to the Emirates Mall.

 
The Emirates Mall is among the largest and most lavish malls in the United Arab Emirates, and it is a place where cultures quite literally collide.UAE citizens are easy to spot in their white disdash (for men) and black abeya (for women), and foreignersare just as easy to identify with their casual shorts, T-shirts, and summerdresses.  Colliding cultures was not just a happening among people either; a walk through Carfourre, a supermarket of French origin, yielded rows and rows of produce from all over the world.  Spanish mandarins sat next to French chestnuts, which were housed near the Australian carrots, right alongside theEgyptian pomegranates and the South African avocados. It was amazing to see a piece of each country brought together in one place.

A walk along the second floor of the mall presented more traditional Arab and Eastern culture. A Persian carpet shop was adorned with elaborately printed rugs and ornate lamps and crystals hung from the ceilings. Right next door was the Jabber Gallery, where Arab and Oriental drawings and art were framed and proudly displayed. Meanwhile, people from all walks of life weaved in and out of each store. Arabs upon Asians upon Europeans flooded the halls of the mall.

After a quick cappuccino and pastry break (delicious caramel cheesecake and apple crumble), we went off to the Marina Walk, located in the New Dubai area where wealth and luxury are clearly imminent. Yachts freckled the Marina which stretches beyond 10 km and empties into the Ocean. The fruity aroma of shisha (Hookah) clouded the air as youth, men and women alike sat atlittle cafes, taking in the scenery and the water pipes. Tall residentialskyscrapers towered over the Marina, and stood as proud emblems of the creativearchitecture that dominates the Emirates. Each tower, more commonly known as a “borg”was brightly lit with different colors and beautifully designed. Some towers sported a traditional Arab dome at the very top, while others had uniquely different structures all together. One such tower, still under construction, is designed to spiral upwards. The entire building curves and twists and also towers over the Marina. 


All of these sites have been breathtaking to behold. The clash of people, the culinary experience, and the ornate architecture only scratch the surface of the country’s beauty. Its beauty also lies in the people’s endeavors towards safety and innovation and development. The country seems to constantly be growing and thousands upon millions of people are collectively working and striving to prosper the nation. The unity of the country, despite its many differences is beautiful in and of itself.

 






 “If a kingdom is divided against itself, that kingdom cannot stand. If a house is divided against itself, that house cannot stand” (Mark 3:24-25). And to God be the Glory.

Countdown

Every year, we approach the eve of the New Year withsentiments of thanksgiving, of joy, of celebration and hope. We ponder the happeningsof the fleeting year we leave behind (often through griping Facebook statusupdates) and eagerly await a new one, one we hope will be filled with grace andgood things. So much so, we literally count down the minutes and the secondsand exclaim our happiness with shouts of joy, and express it with warm embracesamong our loved ones.

For me, another countdown begins. The countdown to my departureto a new place, filled with new people, new experiences, and new lessons to belearned. I count down until the days that will be spent basking in culture, andreveling in the wonders outside of the bustling city that knows no rest.  And I also count down the last few days andmoments spent with family and close friends.

So I say goodbye to 2012, truly thankful for everything itembodied, and I look forward to the events of 2013, firmly believing that theyare all in the hands of the One who fashioned my experiences before I livedthem. I wish everyone a truly blessed year, and as always, to God be the glory.